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| Re-topping. A John Greven demo http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=8501 |
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| Author: | Dave White [ Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:20 pm ] |
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I've read where Alan Carruth describes the process of re-topping a guitar without having to re-bind, but some pictures sometimes are worth a thousand words, and this photo-documentary of the process on John Greven's website is well worth a look. Go to Extras and then Re-top How To. |
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 12:59 am ] |
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I have heard about this procedure form Kent Everett on a couple of occassions. I don't know if I would have the courage to try it though. Looks a bit intimidating but possible. |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 1:04 am ] |
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I've retopped two guitars. One I cut the entire binding off, thus making the guitar more shallow buy almost 1/4". I didn't like that approach. The other I cut the depth of the top off which removed about 1/3 of the binding. I then rebound that part and since it was ebony, it looked fine. I'll try this technique on my next one. Looks very interesting. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 10:47 am ] |
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On a classical one of my students and I removed the back from, I routed the binding off, but only the thickness of the back - then we removed the back by inserting a hot knife between it and the kerfing. Once we reset the neck (thats what we did it for, classical style heel/block combo) we reglued the back on to its needed place, then simply redid the binding/purfling just likea new build - somewhat simpler than this operation. If you didnt want to save the top, and werent afraid to rebind it, then I woudl have routed the top/binding area off at top thickness, replaced the top, then redo the binding as you normally would. Seems way easier than this, but htere is always the " well this is a 40s martin and we dont want to remove/redo the binding. On a newer instrument, I would say its got to go !!! Actually, I would say, you need to take her somewheres else, cause I aint doing that !!! |
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